Saturday, 10 August 2013

Day 169 - 170 Saturday 27th - Sunday 28th July 2013; Location - Manning Gorge Campground

Saturday 27th 

The alarm went off at 6.30am and we got up and had breakfast and got ready for our walk in to Manning Gorge.

(We are on holidays this 6.30am business is really rude dont you think, but hey Manning Gorge is worth it. All of the Kimberley is worth it)

We hit the track at about 7.30am (Rena is very hard to get up of a morning, she has got use to sleeping in, will have to retrain her closer to getting home). I clearly remember this track from last time we were here and HATED IT!! It was so hot and horrid I thought, so I didnt want to walk it in the heat of the day again, and walking in earlier in the day hopefully it will be a much better walk.

The walk in was ok this time, when you start the walk to cross over the swimming hole there is now a boat that you can put your stuff in and pull yourself over the river. Is very good for the kids and also for the adults that dont want to swim across.

Well Rena got the sprints on when she could hear the sound of the waterfall. From dragging her feet to sprinting. WOW another gorgeous spot.

As we were making our way around the rocks (a little bit of rock hopping was required) to the waterfall we found some aboriginal rock art that we didnt see last time we were here.

This time the waterfall had some water going over it, so after a timid entry to the brisk water, Rena and I swam over to the waterfall. We went underneath the waterfall were there is a little cave, and a very nice lady held Rena for me so I could go and swim directly under the waterfall. A very magic moment indeed.

I wasnt able to coax Rena into swimming under the waterfall, so we headed back to James who by this time had taken some photos and was heading out to greet us with a Mertins Water Monitor in his hand.

We then swam back to shore, James returned the lizard to its home, and we dried off sitting on the rocks. What a truely awesome spot.

We headed back to camp and it wasnt too hot but hot enough. For James and I the walk was enjoyable for Rena well she dragged her feet a bit until we got to the boat, the people infront of us had waited for us as they wanted to swim across to cool down but needed someone to take their stuff over on the boat, so we obliged and took their stuff whilst we stayed dry. It was a fun experience for Rena.

Back at camp we relaxed the afternoon away. Rena was a bit upset as the family that camped next to us last night had left, they said they would meet us on the walk, but obviously they had a time table to keep to.

James scored well, the HEMA mapping team turned up, so I asked him to go down and see if they had one of the Bush Tucker Kimberley maps as I hadnt been able to get one since we saw it in Kununurra. Well off he went and came back with a new Kimberley map, unfortunately the Bush Tucker map is no longer in print, so they gave him the latest Kimberley may. BONUS!!!!


Well early night tonight, off to Bell Gorge tomorrow.

Sunday 28th

We packed up camp and headed to the Mt Barnett Roadhouse to fill up the gas bottle. When we got to the roadhouse we found out that they dont do gas refills (map was wrong), I looked at a box of breakfast cereal as we needed some and well at $7.00 for a small box of corn flakes I left it. So no gas refill so we hit the road again.

Next stop was Adcock Gorge, what a spectacular little gorge, easy walk in to it, (drive was a little challenging in spots but not overly hard). What another beautiful Kimberley Gem.

We even got to see another water monitor sunning itself on the rocks (that is until James went to take a closer look, boy those things can move fast and even faster in water).

We then headed back out on to the Gibb River Road again, we called in to the Imintji Store and this time got a gas bottle refill ($29.75 for 3kg of gas), topped up the fuel tank only $2.295 per litre for diesel got 100 litres OUCH! (was $2.40 at Mt Barnett). This time the box of corn flakes was $5.50 but was for a smaller box but we needed it. All up spent $280.75, it is expensive out this way paddle pot was $2.50.

Obligatory ice creams in tummies, diesel in the tank, gas bottle refilled we hit the GRR again headed for Silent Grove campground.

We arrived at the campground which was pretty full and found our spot, at the entrance to the campground we were met by the volunteer campsite hosts. Very friendly people, let us know all about the drinking water and not to swim in the creek, if you want to swim you go to Bell Gorge and swim. Also that there is now hot showers and flushing toilets.

We found a spot (not many not genny ones left at this stage of the day) and set up camp. They have really improved the campground since we were here last time.

Rena hasnt stopped complaining about not having kids to play with since the sweedish girls left yesterday. Hopefully she will find some kids to play with here.

Day 167- 168 Thursday 25th - Friday 26th July 2013; Location - Mt Elizabeth Station

Thursday 25th

Today we took the 4wd track out to the Wunumurra Waterfall. They said it was a rocky track best suited to high clearance 4wd's and they were not wrong. 9.6 klm drive followed by a 1 klm walk to get to the top of the waterfall and another 500 meter walk down stream to the rock art sight.

There wasnt a great deal of water going over the top of the waterfall but it was still beautiful.

We headed down the ladders and downstream towards the rock art sight.

Well as we were rock hopping and climbing over some rocks, my left foot got caught up and I fell, luckily for me a tree broke my fall and held me up, thankfully I was alright.

We kept tracking downstream and came across the rock art sight. WOW, some really nice rock art. It is a shame that in years to come the ochre rock art will be no longer visible due to aging.


We crossed over the river and found some more rock art that was very very old. WOW.

Time to head back to the car and back to camp for lunch. My home made bread is getting better.

After we had had lunch we headed out to the Wana Waterhole 4wd track. This time the track was a very easy drive compared to the other track.

The waterhole was very shallow in spots and was great for Rena. (This time we remembered her swim suite), I left James and Rena and headed upstream on the Hann River and took some photos. BEAUTIFUL!!

Back to James and Rena. The water was a bit cool for James. We sat on the bank and watched Rena and the oncoming smoke from a fire. We decided to head back to camp when the smoke got a bit closer and darker.

So much flora and fauna here, an awesome spot to spend a couple of days and nights.

Friday 26th

We packed up camp and headed off to have a shower before heading on down the Gibb River Road again. Be nice to be clean for a little while.

We called in to the Barnett River Gorge. Only 3 klms off the GRR and a short walk to the swimming hole.

Last time we were here, we just camped here and didnt go down to the swimming hole (which I can now say was a great shame). This time the camping area/car park was packed. A very popular spot now. Even had an APT bus there.

This is another spectacular Kimberley waterhole.

Back in the car and the short drive to Mt Barnett Roadhouse, we paid for our campsite for 2 nights at Manning Gorge, put a dash of diesel in the cruiser ($2.40 per litre) and headed out to the campground.

The campground hasnt changed much in 8 years. The campground was very full but we managed to find a spot to set up camp.

Later on we put on a fire and used the camp over to cook a couple of cakes.

As we were eating dinner (by this time was about 7pm and very dark) a family came and asked if they could camp right next to us. We said ok, so we shared our campfire as they set up their tent.

Rena was happy as they had 2 girls, one 4 one 7. The family were from Sweeden and their grandmother was from Sydney.  Didnt hear much from Rena from the rest of the night, she was captivated by the family.

Eventually we had to pull Rena away and got to bed as we were getting up early in the morning to do the gorge walk. Rena is learning so much and her people skills are really good now.

Day 166 Wednesday 24th July 2013; Location - Hann River (Gibb River Road)

We had a leisurly start to the day and breakfast before packing up camp and hitting the Gibb River Road again for the short drive (well compared to the others) and headed to Mt Elizabeth Station, 30 klms off the GRR.

We booked in for 2 nights and paid our dues. The reception are is really nice, it has a table with magazines and photos of the station. I think this is also where you come and have dinner if you are eating your meals at the homestead.

Rena got to pat a baby wallaby that they were hand raising.

We picked our spot and set up camp in a nice shady spot.

After we set up we had a cuppa and lunch, I then started to make some break and tried out a new recipe for fruit cake.  I got the bread ready for the camp oven later on, whilst James got the fire ready to light later.

Rena was really happy as she had most of her toys out and was happily playing with them

After making the bread I headed off to have a shower before the evening rush hour, well I didnt quite make it in time and had to wait to use the shower. But it was worth the wait, nice hot shower. The facilities here were a bit old but they were very clean and functioned quite well.

Back to camp and I put the break and then the cake on in the camp oven. Fruit cake was a bit hot on the bottom so was a bit crispy (black) but the bread turned out really well.

We had steak on the bbq plate, and baked potatoes thanks to the camp oven for dinner.

It has chilled down alot tonight so we are off to bed to try and get warm. Tomorrow to do the 2 4wd tracks here.

Day 165 Tuesday 23rd July 2013; Location - Homestead Campground, Drysdale River Station

People sure wake up early in this part of the country. We were awake before 7am and one third of the campground have already packed up and left.

I cooked pancakes for breakfast (Rena's favourite) so that I could give the clothes a bit more time to dry before getting them off the line.

Whilst packing up I resorted the bags with the clean washing. Amazing how the bags can get all mixed up with Rena dressing herself now after a few days her bag is a mess, and well James we will just leave that one there.

While we were packing up we had a visitor, the lovely lady from the Perth group came over and gave us the list of must see places to do on our way down the WA coast line. A big thank you.

We then finished our pack up, it is amazing how much we have it down pat now, but after 6 months on the road you would expect that. Looking around and all the people are pretty much in the same situation. You can tell the newbies.

It appears that all our fellow travelers are happy to be here and exploring this wonderful part of Australia. Lots of happy faces around.

We got back on the road and head south. Not to far down the road and we come across the group from Perth (8 cars) and they are pulled over on the side of the road, James said it looked like a tyre or something had gorn. Such a shame as there are a really nice bunch of people. I hope it wasnt anything serious.

We kept on going as with 8 cars one extra would have just been in the way.

We kept driving until we get to the Hann River. We checked out both sides of the river, the southern side isnt really all that good for camper trailers, so we headed back to the north side and camped on the east side of the road underneath the shade of some trees.

Rena was happy as we pulled out all her toys and she got to spend the afternoon playing with her toys whilst James chased the sun with the solar and got the camp fire ready.  Time to cook another cake and a roast for dinner.

I am still pinching myself every day, thanks Dave for letting me have a year off, and a even bigger thank you to my wonderful husband for having the same desire to explore this wonderful land of ours. Every day is a bonus with you. :) I am one very fortunate woman to have such a kind, caring and patient man in my life.

The around Australia trip is definitely "A must do" at least once in your life, it does change you.

Day 164 Monday 22nd July 2013; Location - Honeymoon Bay, Kalumbaru

What an absolutely beautiful piece of Australia to wake up to. The last couple of days has been so awesome, Mitchell Falls, and now Honeymoon Bay. WOW!!!

We took our time packing up this morning and headed back to Kalumburu. We did a side track and called in to the other campground before heading back in to Kalumburu.

We called in to the mission store and I got some duct tape ($10) (to fix the thermal blanket) and a fresh (frozen) loaf of bread ($4.50). The lady that served me was a volunteer and had been there for 5 months and was really looking forward to her daughter coming and picking her up next month. As she said when she volunteered she didnt realise it was so remote. But she was glad that she had done her dues and given something back to society.

Back down the Kalumburu track. This is a road to be experienced, in some spots it is like a goat track and other spots it well... what it is. But what is at the end of the road, makes the journey all worth while. The road there and the scenery in spots is pretty good too if you stop and look.

We called in to the rest area at the King Edward River (Mitchell Falls Rd) turnoff and had a bite to eat. James had a look at a tyre that was left there, dont think that they could repair that one. "Its a bit stuffed mate"

The grader had just graded the road just past the turnoff so it made the driving a bit easier for James (well where the grader had been at least).

We called in to the Miners Pool campground as James was keen to test the key he found at King Edward River campground to see if it fitted in the screen door that we left at the Miners Pool campground.

We pulled up next to the door and as Murphy's law would have it there was no lock in it. If there had of been he may have been able to test it :D

That done we headed back out on to the Gibb River Road and the small drive to Drysdale River Station and paid our dues for the night before heading over to the campground to set up camp.

We ran into a group of people that we had been bumping in to since our first night at the King Edward River campground. A ground of 8 cars mostly from Perth.

We set up camp and I headed over to the showers and waited in line, once I had my shower I headed over to the laundry, unfortunately there is only 2 washing machines, so I waited in line again, and ran into some of the ladies from the Perth group.

We got talking about our different travels and well since they are from WA I asked them about what they consider to be their must do places down the WA coastline.  They gave me a few place names to visit and we very helpful. One of the ladies said she would write them down for me and drop over and give it to me later :)

Well after the wait for a machine I got the washing on and James cooked dinner in between my walks back and forth to the washing machine and clothes line. Hanging clothes out in the dark is fun, but hopefully they will dry overnight. No sheets washed this time. :(

Once the washing was done and dinner eaten we decided to head indoors as it got a bit chilly tonight. I must be getting soft in my old age, feeling the cold nights up here.


Day 163 Sunday 21st July 2013; Location - Munurru Campground, King Edward River

Time to pack up again, but this time we are headed north up to Kalumburu. It will be interesting to see what it is like north of here as this is the furthest that we have been before.

The King Edward River campground has been greatly improved since we were here back in 2005, by the next time we come through the new toilets will have been competed and the new section of the campground opened. It is really nice, each site has a fire ring and is mowed. There are single sites and sites were you can have multiple campers/vans.

All packed up and we head north. Some of the road was good and some of it not so good. Some of it was no more than a goat track.

We got to Kalumburu and as it was midday on Sunday everything was shut and locked up tight, so any attempt we made to pay the permit was fruitless. This is definitely an aboriginal mission settlement. The biggest building was the police station.

So without being able to get a permit we decided to head on out to Honeymoon Bay and try and pay the permit up there.

When we arrived at Honeymoon Bay the owner took our fees for camping and when we asked how we could pay for the permit he told us that we could pay the access permit next year (with a smile on his face).  He then told us we could camp up on the top of the hill near the house or we could go and camp down on the beach.

Well could you see us camping up near the house when we could camp on the beach. No way, so we headed on down to the beach, and we found a nice little spot and pulled up stumps for the day.

Well I have been to some pretty beaches in my life, and this is right up there. Spectacular.

After we had set up camp, we sat down and relaxed chasing the shade but enjoying the beautiful breeze. We then went for a walk along the beach as the sun was setting. What a truely spectacular place to be and the sunset was magic. The colours up here are just magic and no camera will ever capture what the human eye can see. You will just have to come and see it for yourself :D :D

When we did eventually go to bed we left all of the windows open and watched the ocean and moon from inside as it was almost a full moon and everything was lit up by moonlight.

Rena went to sleep watching the stars and the moon. It really doesnt get much better than this.

(All that was wrong with up here was the midgies, definitely need to bring the triple strength aeroguard up here and spray it before 4pm, ignoring that and it is almost paradise)

Day 161 - 162 Friday 19th - Saturday 20th July 2013; Location - Mitchell Campground, Mitchell River National Park

Friday 19th

We awoke at about 5.50am way before the alarm was set for. Some people had already packed up and left, and others had already left to do the hike out to Mitchell Falls.

We had breakfast and got ready and headed off at about 7.30am. Last time we were here we didnt see the aboriginal art gallery that is on the left hand side on the other side of the creek on the way out to the falls. So James did some rock hopping and went and took some photos and I waited with Rena on the main side of the creek.

We then headed off for Big Mertens Falls. Last time there was barely a trickle going over the falls, this time there was a little bit more, but not enough to stop you walking over, enough for a nice photo.

Starting to get excited that there might be a decent amount of water going over the Mitchell Falls.

Well we were not dissapointed, The falls were flowing and there was a decent amount of water flowing over Mitchell Falls. There was so much water in fact that you couldnt walk across to the other side of the river without taking your shoes off and wading through water.

We did a fair amount of rock hopping to get to the spot where you can cross over the river, Mitchell Falls 1 - My top lip and left knee 0. We shall just leave it at that, but OUCH!!

Once across the river there is a new heli pad and a waiting area for its customers which is nice and shaded, so we took full advantage of this and sat down in the shade and had our morning tea before putting our shoes back on. (James also did a geocache that was nearby too)

We explored the west side of the river and found this nice little rock ledge that overlooked the falls, so we sat and took it all in before taking a few photos. WOW, truely awesome.

We headed back over the river and ended up spending a fair amount of time sitting in the river, beautiful spot to cool off. Was nice and shallow for Rena too.

We headed back to camp via the track that went around the side of the river (didnt see it on the way in) no rock hopping this time.

Back at Little Mertens Falls we went down to the waterhole underneath it and looked at the aboriginal rock art again. There was a tour guide there with a group and he was explaining what the rock art meant. We eavesdropped a bit, was very interesting before moving on and heading down for a swim.

I think we must have just been too hot, but none of us went for a swim, we just cooled down a bit, I only put my legs in and splashed myself.

Back at camp by 2.30 pm what a wonderful walk. Rena is a little trouper and definately a good little hiker girl. Yes the walk back was hot, but now we can say that we walked both in and out. :( No helicopter ride out this time :(

Dinner tonight was nice and easy as whilst we were having breakfast I started cooking dinner in the dreampot 'Silverside',  so it was an easy dinner all I had to do was cook the vegis and slice the meat. MMM MMMM. Nice and tender too.

Awesome spot, Awesome Walk :)

Saturday 20th

We awoke reasonably early, I had a rough night with my legs, my left knee that I had bruised in my fall yesterday and my right leg played up all night :(

We packed up camp and headed back to the King Edward River. The road didnt seem as busy today as it was on our way in and there seemed to be less corrugations that last time we were here too.

We stopped at the aboriginal burial art site just west of the campground. We found some really good examples of aboriginal art. Found a burial site by accident and respectfully backed away really quickly. Definitely did not want to upset the spirits and we wanted to respect the culture. I felt very humble to be here and witness this aboriginal site. I wish that I could have explained what the different images meant to Rena as she is really interested and wanted to know what they were.

Back to the Munurru Campground (King Edward River) and we even got the same spot as we camped in the other night.

We set up and had lunch, but not before poor Rena had a nose bleed. She was really grumpy and teary in the car, I think we may have worn the poor little girl out.

Time to attempt to make some break to cook on the fire tonight and do some stuff with Rena.

I think both Rena and I are ready for a couple of days relaxing at Quondong Beach, but that will not be for a couple of weeks yet.

The bread turned out quite ok. :) Sandwiches for the next couple of day :) cool.